Notes from Doug Piper’s Crowdcast interview with Weihenstephaner’s Philippe Janssens

Doug Piper, host of Gourmet Brewing on Crowdcast had Philippe Janssens as his guest on April 28, 2022. Philippe Janssens is Tech/Mgr at Fermentis and offered up a lot of great information on the subject of brewing lagers, particularly helles lagers. Listen to the cast: Fermentis: Lager Yeast Best Practices – Strains & Avoiding Off-Flavors here.

Here are some notes I took for future reference:

Weihenstaphaner’s bottled “Premium” Lager in America is the same as their “Helles”. Their helles is decocted, while their newer canned offering, is not and is not the same beer. Janssens says the decoction is better for flavor. The slimmer-bodied canned helles is infusion mashed with 100% Pilsner malt and “no crystal”. Mash out at 77°C (172°F). Sauergut is used. OG=11.0, 16 IBUs, 4.8% ABV. Perle hops at start of boil. Hallertau Select in the middle of the boil. Hallertau Saphir at finish.

Their beers are lagered in horizontal tanks for 4-5 weeks at 0°C. Then to filtration through a “horizontal leaf filter” which is a sheet filter with pads. At 14:40.

Janssens says main difference Fermentis 34/70 versus S-23 is the ability of the S-23 to produce more esters compared to 34/70, depending upon conditions, like temperature. 34/70 is robust and stable. S-23 has more ability to react to the process. Increase in temperature increases more esters, compared to 34/70 in the same conditions. Pressure applied during fermentation will produce less esters. Temperature, pressure, gravity and pitching rate are things the brewer can experiment with. Decreased pitching rate will increase ester production.

For 34/70, Janssens says you can start at 12°C. Recommends not below 10°C fermentation. “At 8°C, for example, fermentation time is a little bit too long”. Recommends initiating between 12 and 14°C with a diacetyl rest at 16°C if desired.

Janssens says 34/70 will produce clean, classic beer. Fruity and hoppy beers with S-23.

Janssens offered some information on Weihenstephaner’s hefewiesen. A 113°F rest for ferric acid production and protein to allow for stable haziness.

Janssens said they treat the finished beer with “keogoreb” or whatever. I could not make out word he said. He said it “absorbs yeast and proteins”. I wonder if this is similar to kieselsol or chitosan.

Give the Crowdcast a listen and consider supporting Doug Piper. His Crowdcasts are very informative.

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My first encounter with beer stone

I had my first encounter with beer stone recently. My fermenter chiller coils have been collecting a residue that does not come off easily. Normally, to clean them, I run a Scotch brite pads along the coils with some Barkeepers. Then I rinse well and dip in a StarSan solution and let air dry. The coil looks clean while wet. Afterward it dries I notice the residue. At first I thought it may be residual StarSan that dried up but the last time I used the coil, there was a lot more residue.

This is a close up of my chiller coil I put in my fermenter to keep temps with glycol. I have seen this residue on the coil before but not near this much. The picture of the coil is after cleaning with a Scothbrite pad and Barkeepers.

Upon swirling the cup, it did not act like yeast, which would make the solution milky. It acted more like miniature grits or something and quickly settled out. So I took a sample an eyedropper and put it on a slide and checked under the microscope. The microscope picture is at 430X.

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My Second 5000 BTU Window AC Glycol Chiller Build

This is my second glycol chiller build. I used a new 5000 BTU window AC unit I had sitting around still in the box for several years. I decided to build out a second chiller to have as a backup in case my first one fails, but also to use to chill wort after boiling.

My first chiller, practically the same build, has been in use for 13 months so far with excellent results. I have had it in use the whole time, holding the nine gallons of glycol solution in the Rubbermaid 48-quart cooler at 30-33°F. It is controlled with an Inkbird ITC-1000 controller. The chiller has come on at least 10 to 15 times a day since it was put into service.

This is a Frigidaire 5000 BTU window AC unit with analog controls. Whether it is an analog or digital unit, the only components needed are five things: the HERM compressor, compressor fan, compressor coil, evaporator coil and capacitor. Other than that, I kept the base it is all mounted to, the housing cover, and wires.

Here is the unit with cover removed, return air blower wheel and styrofoam air routing removed. It is ready to begin working on.

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Notes on my first attempt at making crystal malt

On Friday, August 23, 2019, I made my first attempt at making some crystal malt. I used Brewcabin.com’s post as a guide.

8:00 AM: Soaked 1 lb Thomas Fawcett Golden Promise malt in about 21 oz of bottled water in a plastic container at around 78°F for four hours.

12:07 PM: Poured the soaked grains into a stainless steel stock pot with lid and floated in eight gallons of water in my boil kettle at 160°F. Plan to let mash for 3 hours.

1:15 PM: The grains seemed to be losing water so I added a bottle of water (16.9 oz) to the stock pot. On retrospect, I believe this was way too much water to add, if any needed be added at all.*

3:25 PM: Poured the grains into a colander to drain off liquid. Collected about 20 oz of wort that measured 5.9 Brix.* Spread the grains in a stainless steel pan to about 1/2″ inches deep. Placed in oven at 220°F to begin drying.

3:45 PM: Stirred grains.

4:15 PM: Stirred grains.

I stirred the grains every 30 minutes. It took approximately 4 hours to sufficiently dry the grains. I then set the oven at 300°F. Once the oven was heated to 300°F, I began timing. I let the grains roast for 20 minutes. That is my guess at achieving about 30L, based on figures from the Brewcabin.com post.

* In retrospect, I believe I added way too much additional water while mashing. I think spraying the grains occassionally would be a better idea. I did not want them to dry out, but also, I think having them soaking in water draws sugars from the grains into solution – lost sugar! So next time I will spray them as necessary so they remain wet, but not soaking.

The crystal malts tasted great. I think they will add some nice flavor and color to a beer, but they are crunchy and easy to chew and lack the hard glassiness of typical crystal malts.

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Doom Bar Brewing Notes

Doom Bar recipe notes:

Links:

BeerSmith forum
HomebrewTalk
Jim’s Beer Kit

From Doom Bar page on Sharp’s website:
Cask: 4.0 %ABV
Bottle: 4.3 %ABV

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Making Soap To Use In The Brewery

Not necessarily brew related, but for future reference. I made my second batch of hand soap that I use in the brewery. The last batch yielded 18 bars and lasted about two years. I could not find the same recipe but found one that is very close. It only uses olive oil as the fat, so it is cheap and easy.

I used the remaining amount of olive oil from the container I bought for the last batch. I weighed the olive oil and it came out to 46.15 ounces. I used the SMBCrafters soak-making calculator to find out how much sodium hydroxide and water to use. The batch size is designed to fill the soap mold I made from a Sams Club cutting board. I weighed out the ingredients with a digital kitchen scale.

The recipe:

46.15 oz Extra virgin olive oil
6.1 oz Sodium hydroxide
14.1 ounces of distilled water.

WARNING about sodium hydroxide: IT IS DANGEROUS!!! Handle with care!!!

After weighing all the ingredients, I took the water and sodium hydroxide out on the deck outside. There needs to be good ventilation when mixing the two. I wore protective eyewear and rubber gloves to work with this solution. I slowly poured the sodium hydroxide into the water while stirring with a stainless steel spoon. Once mixed very well, I took the temperature of the solution. The thermometer read 198°F! The chemical reaction makes a lot of heat! Always add the sodium hydroxide to the water, not the other way around. Now we have a lye solution.

While I let the lye solution cool, I heated the olive oil to about 128°F in a stainless steel pot. I let both solutions cool to below 120°F before mixing. The lye solution got down to about 117°F and the oil about 114°F. If they are within 10 degrees of each other, we are good to go.

I slowly poured the lye solution into the pot containing the oil, stirring constantly using a hand mixer. Once the combined, I put the hand mixer in the middle of the pot and ran it on low in short bursts. These hand mixers are not designed to run continuously and will burn out. So short bursts of a few seconds every so often is adequate, then mixing with the hand mixing like a spoon to keep mixing.

After about 10 to 15 minutes the soap solution began to trace. Trace is when you can drip the solution off the mixer and it leaves a trace, or trails, on the surface of the soap solution. Once mixed well and at trace, I poured the soap solution into the soap mold, scraping all I could get out of the pot with a spatula. I put the mold out of the way and put a sheet of cardboard on top to keep dust out. This will take about 48+ hours to set up and be ready to take out of the mold and cut into bars.

My soap making kit includes a soap mold, a digital kitchen scale, a stainless steel pot, hand mixer, a couple of mixing cups and utensils, rubber gloves and protective eyewear.

040119 9:00 AM: I decided to go ahead and slice the soap after it had been in the mold for 45 hours. It was harder to slice than I remember. Perhaps I can slice it next time after 36 hours or so.

My homemade slicer only had four wires. More than that would make it really hard to cut. Here is the slicer after finishing.

I put a 2×4 under the cardboard and wax paper so the slicer can slice all the way down to the cardboard. If I work on just a flat surface, the wires would not slice all the way through because they bend upwards a little bit.

Also, the way I have the steel wire installed, I had to use a screw driver inserted through the wire tightening eye screws to keep them from turning and loosening the wire as it sliced through the soap.

Here are all of the 18 bars of soap that I just sliced.

I turned the soap bars on their sides so I could cover them up with a towel to keep dust off of them while they cure for three weeks.

[Added 111323: Screenshot of recipe calculations]

Screenshot of recipe calculations.

Screenshot of recipe calculations.

REFERENCES:

1. Simple Castile Soap Recipe: how to make olive oil soap with just three ingredients
2. Soap Making 101: How to Make Soap {cold process}
3. SMBCrafters Soapmaking Calculator [v1.31]

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First Attempt at Malting Wheat

I have been reading about malting grains for a good while and finally decided to give it a try after I spotted some raw wheat at Whole Foods the other day. I bought about 2.5 pounds of it to play around with. It was labeled as organic hard red winter wheat.

I put a dozen or so grains in a folded paper towel and placed it in a zip lock bag with enough water to wet the paper towel well. I let it sit for a few days and sure enough the grains sprouted to the people oint where the acrospire had turned green.

I used this procedure which seems to be popular with Google:

03/14/19 2:00 PM: I place the wheat in a two-gallon bucket and added enough water to about two inches above the wheat. I mixed it around a bit to allow any debris to make its way loose and then strained it. I added the same about of water again and let it sit for eight hours.

03/14/19 10:00 PM: I strained the wheat and put it back in the bucket, placed the lid on lightly (not sealed) and let it sit for another eight hours.

03/15/19 6:00 AM: I added water back to the wheat as before and let it sit another eight hours.

3/15/19 2:00 PM: After draining the wheat, I spredded the very damp wheat evenly layered about one inch deep into a stainless steel pan and covered with a towel. That evening before bed, I sprayed the top with water, just enough to keep it moist. I did the same the next morning.

After about 18 hours into the soaking process, I observed the small white chits emerging from the grains.

At about 28 hours, I observed the roots and acrospire beginning to emerge.

At 42 hours, the roots and acrospire are easily visible.

At 49 hours, the acrospire appears to be 1/4 to 1/3 the length of the kernels.

03/17/19 10:00 AM: At 68 hours, I observed that many of the grains had acrospires at or close to the length of the kernel. There were a lot that were around 1/4 the length but I decided to go ahead and begin the drying process.

I am using the Presto 06301 Dehydro Digital Electric Food Dehydrator to dry my wheat. It has six trays and that turns out to be just enough space for this batch. The grains had swelled to where they were about 1.5″ deep in the stainless steel tray I used. I was able to break off chucks of the grains about two inches wide to put on the dryer trays, then spread them a little bit to reduce the height so the next tray on top will fit properly on the dryer.

Once all the grains were in the dehydrator, I set the temperature at 95°F for six hours. I will check periodically to see how they are doing. I expect it will take longer than six hours.

I let the dehydrator run for about 15 hours at 95°F. It was set to quit during the night so I checked the next morning. The malts are crunchy but tasted green. Not sure they are completely done.

03/18/19 10:45 AM: I set the dehydrator for another two hours at 125°F.

03/20/19 10:00 AM: I pulled a few ounces of the freshly malted wheat and put in a baggie. I put the rest in a stainless steel pan and place it in the oven and different temperatures, removing a few ounces after each step so I could sample the differences later.

Bag A: 15 hours at 95°F, 2 hours at 125°F – basic green taste and aroma.
Bag B: Additional 3 hours at 175°F – still green but better.
Bag C: Additional 2 hours at 175°F – a light pale malt, slightly toasty.
Bag D: Additional 2 hours at 225°F – toasty, biscuity flavor and aroma.
Bag E: Additional 1 hours at 325°F – smells of coffee and chocolate. Roasted coffee bean flavor.
Bag F: Additional 1 hours at 325°F – more roasted smell, harsher taste.
Bag G: Additional 1 hours at 400°F – strong roasted smell and taste. Acrid at first.

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Boil-off Test On My Small Kettle

On Sunday, January 27, 2019, I conducted a boil-off test on my small kettle. It is a 62-quart SS Bayou Classic that I have used for five-gallon batches for years. I have been experimenting with lid-on boiling with my 1/2 BBL system with the BrunDog condenser unit and wanted to trying boiling with the lid on on the small rig to save boil-off while using less electricity with a lower PWR setting. The lid has some holes in it from prior experiments. I think there will be adequate vaporing through those holes for the wort to get rid of the unwanted stuff. Of course, I will have to actually try it to make sure.

11:00 AM: I started with about 7.5 gallons of water in the kettle at 65°F. I put the lid on and applied 100% PWR.

11:35 AM: A full hard rolling boil (likely started a little sooner that 11:35.) Cut PWR to 50%.

11:39 AM: Hard rolling boil. Cut PWR to 30%.

11:45 AM: Nice rolling boil. Set PWR to 20%.

11:47 AM: Slow boil. Set PWR to 25%.

11:55 AM: Adequate boil.

12:10 PM: Nice boil.

12:20 PM: Nice boil.

12:44 PM: Perhaps a more rigorous boil than needed.

12:55 PM: A bit more boil than required. Set PWR to 23%.

1:05 PM: Adequate boil at flame out (FO).

The volume after FO was about 7.2 gallons at approximately 210°F. The water will need to cool to get a better reading. At the current volume, the boil-off was surprisingly low at about 0.3 gallons over a 90-minute boil. When I boil with the lid off, I usually expect a two-gallon+ boil-off.

I looks like a PWR setting of about 23% will do the work. I am used to using about PWR=60% with lid-off boiling.

3:30 PM: T=150°F, Volume = 7.0 gallons. So, 210°F – 150°F = 60°F delta. 7.2 gallons – 7.0 gallons = 0.2 gallon delta. That’s 0.2 g / 60°F = 0.00333 g/°F.

Predicting the volume when cooled back to 65°F:
210°F – 65°F = 145°F.
145°F x 0.00333 g/°F = 0.483 g

So, 7.2 gallons at 210°F is predicted to be 6.7 gallons when cooled back down to 65°F.

Original volume: 7.2 g
Final volume: 6.7 g
Boil-off: 0.5 g

Boil-off rate 0.5 g / 90 min. = 0.005365 g/min from beginning to end.

Monday, January 28, 2019, 9:30 AM: Kettle T=58°F. Kettle volume = 6.9 gallons. Boil-off loss = 7.5gal – 6.9al = 0.6 gallons.

Now to brew a batch!

UPDATE: 02/02/19: Brewed the my first batch with the lid on the kettle, a maibock at 13.7 Brix pre-boil. Sparged to 6.5 gallons and boiled for 120 minutes at around 23% PWR. I kept adjusting the power until it settled in to a nice boil. After flame out and chilling the wort to 46°F, the volume was right at five gallons. I added some distilled water to get to my target of 5.3 gallons. So, 6.5 – 5 = 1.5 gallons of boil-off over the 120 minute boil. 0.75 gallons per hour. That is substantially higher than the 0.33 gallons per hour I calculated with the water test. Now to see if the beer tastes good.

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Replacement Batteries For Brewing Equipment

Not too many pieces of brewing equipment require batteries to be replaced from time to time. This is just for future reference when I need to replace batteries.

1. Milwaukee pH56 Pocket pH/Temp Tester: four LR44 batteries.

2. CDN thermometer: one LR44 battery.

3. AWS-1KG scale: two AAA batteries.

4. WeightWatchers scale: four AAA batteries.

5. Berkley Digital Fish Scale: two CR2032 batteries.

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First Brew Day On My 1/2 BBL HERMS System

On Saturday, October 13, 2018, I finally put my 1/2 BBL HERMS brew rig to the test. I had been working to get my fermenter/chiller prepared for the last month. I tested it with water and determined that it was ready to ferment beer.

I decided to brew something rather simple, a best bitter. I scaled up a recipe I had brewed a few times. With my almost 32 lbs of grains and almost 8 ounces of hops, this was certain to be an exciting and interesting day. And, as it turned out, a very long day.

About 32 lbs of malts and 8 ounces of hops ready for brewery.

While I was running the grains through my motorized malt mill, the mill stopped crushing but the motor was running. I turned the motor off and cleared the mill a few times with no success. I had to remove the grains from the hopper and, yep, there was the answer to my problem. A pebble about 1/4″ big was the culprit. I had never had this happen before.

I filled the HLT almost to the very top with 25.33 gallons of filtered water. I measure volumes with a yardstick. It translates to 0.75 inches per gallon. I heated the HLT water to a strike temperature of 135°F. I pumped 14.6 gallons (10.95″) into the mash tun, which is 1.5 quarts per pound of grain. I mashed in at 11:25 AM. I stirred well to make sure there were no lumps. Mash temperature was 131°F. I ramped up to 151°F which took an hour and five minutes. Longer than I expected. I had the HLT temperature set at 152°F. I suppose if I heat the HLT higher, I can ramp up quicker, but I would need to make sure the HTL temp gets back down to my desired mash temp, so perhaps I will experiment with that. Measure pH=5.88 at 84°F.

Since I drained so much water out of the HLT to the mash tun for the mash, I needed to add more water to cover the HERMS coil. I measured 7.75 inches, or 10.33 gallons remaining, so I added 4.25 inches, or 5.67 gallons more filtered water to cover the HERMS, which brought it up to 12 inches, or 16 gallons. I also added 1/3 Campden tablet. The additional water brought the HLT temperature down to around 138°F but did not take long to get back up to mash temp. [Note to self: Perhaps run filter water into HLT while pumping the strike water into the MT.]

Mashing with the HERMS. I stirred the mash about every 15 minutes.

After 90 minutes into the mash, I ramped it up to 168°F for a mash out. It took 32 minutes to reach 168°F. I held it there for about 15 minutes and then started my sparge. Since the HERMS systems is constantly pumping, the mash was pretty clear, so no vorlauf required.

HLT is knocking the chill off of my leftover sub sandwich.


Towards the end of the sparge, I determined that I had enough water in the mash tun and stopped the HLT heat and pump. The HLT had drained down to 4.8 inches, or 6.4 gallons remaining and the BoilCoil needs about seven gallons to safely operate.

I began collecting wort at 2:02 PM and sparged at 172°F at a rate of about three gallons per 12 minutes. At 3:20 PM I stopped the sparge and measured 14.875 inches of wort in the kettle. That translated to 19.83 gallons – very close to what I calculated at 19.7 gallons of pre-boil wort. The Brix measured 12.0.

With my kettle nicely full of wort, I set the PID controller on 100% power and recirculated the wort while heating. Once the kettle temp was about 190°F, I stopped the recirculating pump. I reduced the heat to 80% once the kettle reached 200°F. I reduced it further as the temp reach 212°F, and settled in at 40% power and a slow rolling boil until hot break. After I determined that hot break had been achieved, put the lid on the kettle and started running water through the condenser attached to the side of the kettle. I ran the condenser at about 100 PSI and just ran waste water out on the ground. During the boil, the waste water smelled pretty bad. The silicone hose I used to drain it to ground stinks, so there is some pretty nasty stuff being boiled out of the wort. Flame out at 5:48 PM. Boil time: 90 minutes. Post-boil volume: 17.67 gallons, or 13.25 inches.

Once the boil was completed, I began to chill with my chill rig with tap water at about 78°F. I let that run for about 15-20 minutes to get the kettle temp down to about 95°F, then I switched to chilled water. After several minutes, the kettle temperature reached 50°F. I shut everything down and let the kettle rest to settle out for a few hours. I let the kettle temp rise to about 60°F before transferring the wort to the fermenter. I drained about 3.5 gallons at a time in a bucket to carry to the fermenter. I estimate there was about 2/3 gallons of trubby wort remaining in the kettle, which gave me about perhaps a little under 17 gallons into the fermenter. My target was 16.5 minimum.

After dosing about 3.5 minutes of O2, I added approximately 400 mL of thick yeast slurry from two prior batches. London ESB yeast from batches 107 and 108.

With that done, I assembled the chiller coil and lid and place in the fermenter. I hooked up the two chiller hoses and set the controller 68°F. The temperature started at 59.7°F and ramped up naturally over the next day to 67.1, as measured the next night at around midnight. My target fermentation temperature was 68°F.

I observed first bubbling in the blow off container at about 8:30 AM, Monday, October 15, 2018.

Now to prepare three corny kegs for beer!

The pebble that goofed up my grain mill.

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